Fashion Monday with JJ Lee

As ethos, as dō, style, work, expression, stewardship, map, scar, meaning.

Tune in EVERY Tuesday 11:30 AM this summer on CBC Radio One OR LISTEN to the podcast.

In June of 2006, I encountered the chicest woman I have ever met. I can’t say for sure if she was tall, but I remember distinctly that her heels were. She wore sharply pointed slingbacks—no cutesy peep toes for her—that easily could have been used to gouge out the eyes of anyone who looked at her the wrong way. She walked in with a big snakeskin purse and an even bigger reputation for being indomitable and sharp-tongued. She was a national broadcaster from Toronto—and still is—so let’s call her Isabella. Read more of JJ's story,  "Do you have to be cruel to be chic,"  in the latest issue of ELLE Canada .

"...spotting a man on the street wearing a bloom on his lapel outside of prom or a wedding is akin to a unicorn sighting. (A very stylish unicorn.) I rarely see them and that’s a pity, because a well-chosen flower can unleash the sexual energy of the suit. It’s been argued before but here’s an abbreviation of the symbolic concept: the suit jacket blooms out like a flower and exposes the man’s chest; the lapels are the flower petals and the tie is the, ahem, stamen. A good boutonnière unlocks this hidden sensuality." Get JJ's tips on how to wear the boutonniere at  National Post Style .

Some people think that tweed is a fussy, itchy fabric, that it is simply too warm to wear. They're wrong. Or maybe they're right BUT it doesn't matter. When fall comes, I hope for cool brisk mornings and a North Atlantic wind so I can wear it. Want to know what makes tweed, Harris Tweed, absolutely glorious? The land tweed comes from. One look (I dream, I dream) at the land of tweed and you'll want to make the journey. Take the A859 Road in Scotland (just follow the road in Google Map) and you'll want to wear tweed for the rest of your life. If you can't be bothered, check out this video from Esquire and Martin Koddenberg on the weavers of the Isles of Lewis and Harris, the land of Harris Tweed, and the Orb!

It's been a while...and though I wrote it in The National Post in July and fall is just around the corner, I'm still going sockless. Summer style is about less. It’s about taking a break from the rules and lightening up. Not ironing so much. Letting khakis get dirty. And though you may look best in dark ties, it’s time to take a sartorial vacation and wear bright ones. Ungird yourself and go beltless. No really. Just enjoy that feeling of your tropical weight wool suit flowing over you. Be tantalized by the thought of being a button and a zipper away from simply flapping in the wind. It’s OK. It’s summer. And: Go sockless... Read the rest in The National Post .

Watch on the BIG SCREEN the stylish and classic thriller by Michael Mann: HEAT Starring Robert De Niro, Al Pacino and VAL KILMER on July 2 at the Vancity Theatre! I'm presenting it as part of the Vancouver International Film Festival's Cinema Salon. It would be great to see you there. Info and Tix !

The flashes of brilliance, the moments of poor judgment, the grit of a journeyman’s effort, the blatant violations of code and the dramatic crescendo of the final — it’s hard to tear your eyes from the screen during the NHL Playoffs. And I’m not even talking about what takes place on the ice. With the profusion of analysts, panellists and insider columnists able to fill every waking moment of our lives with hockey talk, we are also treated to an endless parade of clothes. Not surprisingly, there have been a few sartorial offsides and several major infractions. Commentators like CBC’s PJ Stock and TSN’s Aaron Ward are on TV because of their hockey knowledge, not their fashion smarts. It’s a missed opportunity, as many Canadian men take dressing cues from these guys. In the spirit of post-game dissection, I pulled out the digital crayon to draw attention to the hockey cognoscenti misplays, and to sketch out how they can elevate their style to a championship level. A side note: I w

A vancouver shirt/tie combo from Brooks Brothers . Or this tie from J Crew . Ok, you would be half-dressed in these Topman/The Bay boxers .

Check out my take on the charm of Val Kilmer's Doc Holliday hat in The National Post .

It's been a while since I posted here. But you can find recent blogs about clothes and writing at JJ-LEE.COM

Q. Why does James Bond, no matter who plays him, look so good in a tuxedo? A. It may be because they are handsome, roguish, sophisticated actors who play one of the most dashing characters in 20th century popular fiction. But besides that, all of them follow a few simple black-tie rules (at National Post).

Q. Elbow patches are kind of hot in a "professor that might secretly be Indiana Jones" sort of way - but they also look kind of contrived - especially on a brand new jacket. Does the elbow patch have a place on a new jacket or does it belong only in a vintage piece? A: Style Master says - If I had a whip (maybe I do, maybe I don't), I would crack it now. Elbow patches are best when patching a hole in a well-loved garment. If the hole appears on the left, only patch the left. Symmetry is for suckers and the quirk of one-sided patching gives a whiff of old establishment thriftiness. Admittedly, this year, elbow patches are everywhere (AGAIN in 2012, I wrote this nearly a year ago). So, I concede to the inevitable, the same way Indiana conceded to the feisty Marion Ravenwood. If you must buy a garment with elbow patches, make sure they COVER the elbows and not the upper arm or forearm. If they don't, someone should conk your crystal skull. Read more: htt

This fa ll there will be much talk about the bomber jacket. The term, bomber, will be applied to a lot of short jackets with ribbed waistbands whether they are in fact based on aviator or motorcycle or infantry blouson jacket styles. Above is a picture of Tuskegee airmen during the Second World War. They were some of the first black fighter pilot's in US history. You can find more about them here . Of course, I just want to talk about their clothes. They are wearing the classic aviator jacket, the A2, as designated by the US Air Force. It is COLLARED. On the shoulders do sit epaulettes or straps. Notice the pockets. They are flapped PATCH pockets. They are not slash pockets (they often sit at an angle). The ribbing is low enough to cover the belt line. There was also a G-1 jacket. It has a fur-lined collar and it was used by the Navy and Marines. Most people who see this jacket will often call them "bombers." But when I hear bomber jacket, I think of the gunners